TALKS & MOVIES
TALK + MOVIE "FLASHED" with Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher
One try. That’s all it took for Babsi Zangerl to send the 3,000-foot (≈900 m) Free Rider (VI 5.13a) on El Capitan. Setting off on a ground-up attempt this past November, Babsi and her partner Jacopo spent three days battling polished slabs, offwidths, and cryptic sequences on their historic bid. In the end, Babsi topped out as the first person to flash El Cap. But that’s just the “black and white” outcome of those fateful three days. What truly transpired was captured on film and tells a much deeper story—one of love, partnership, and character. This is the real story of Babsi and Jacopo’s epic ascent, laid bare for all to see.
Barbara ”Babsi” Zangerl
One the greatest free climbers of our time with an amazing list of climbs to her name.
One of the first female to boulder 8B with ”Pura Vida”, she then directed her focus more to trad and adventure climbing. With a total of 8 free ascents on El Cap including the flash of ”Freerider”, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face aswell as multiple 9a sport routes and the mythical trad test pieces ”Meltdown” and ”Magic Line” in Yosemite. In 2022, Babsi and her partner Jacopo Larcher, made the first flash of Eternal Flame on Trango Tower in Pakistan. It was also the first free female ascent of the route.
Jacopo Larcher
Jacopo started his climbing life indoors, doing a lot of competitions.
He then directed his focus to trad and adventure climbing, first out with the iconic ”Rhapsody” E11 and later ”Meltdown” and ”Magic Line” in Yosemite. After 6 years of work he established his own masterpiece ”Tribe”, considered one of the words hardest trad routes. On the big faces he has multiple free ascents on El Cap, the Eiger Noth Face, ”The Gift” and ‘”7th Direction” in the Alps.
FRIDAY 20.30 @ INDOOR MAIN STAGE
MOVIE DISCO 2000 with Hannes Puman and Kristoffer Klev
Two fearless guys take on the toughest climb on Blåmann, just outside Tromsø in northern Norway—Disco 2000. Despite some bad luck with logistics, they stay cool under pressure. Can they pull it off?
Shot by: Vegard Breie, Marting Andersen and Vetle Sevild
Juho Knuuttila will give an introduction to climbing in northern Norway
and show some photos from his new routes in connection with the movie.
SATURDAY 19.00 @ INDOOR MAIN STAGE
TALK with Johan Luhr
One of the most prolific climbers in Swedish climbing history. He was there when free climbing took of in Sweden with some early first ascents in Bohuslän.
He is responsible for the majority of sport routes put up in the 90’s and 00’s in Sweden, especially on the west coast and Stockholm.
Apart from his sport climbing achievements he is an all around climber with expeditions to the Himalayas, trad climbing and bouldering.
This man is without a doubt the most productive climber is Swedish history with over 1300 FAs to his credit. At Bohusfest he will tell his lifelong story of climbing including some highlights from Bohuslän from back in the day.
SATURDAY 20.30 @ INDOOR MAIN STAGE
MOVIE Jipmoken: Bringa av Ek with Patrik Lyzell and Jonatan Landström
Nestled along the southwestern shores of Lake Storvindeln, Jipmoken stands out in an otherwise mostly flat landscape. The imposing quartz-rich sparagmite cliff stretches seven kilometers in length and stands between 100 to 150 meters tall. At its base lie massive boulders, remnants dislodged by earthquakes following the retreat of the inland ice.
Watch trad dad Patrik Lyzell and local climbing enthusiast Jonatan Landström explore this largely untouched area and attempt the first free climb of the main wall of Jipmoken.
Shot and edited by Andreas Jonsson.
Watch the trailer