Discover Bohuslän: A Climber's Paradise in Sweden

The Evolution of Climbing in Bohuslän

Bohuslän is home to some of the finest climbing in Sweden and Scandinavia. Modern free climbing, as we know it today, took root here in the 1970s, when the first classic routes were established. Back then, trad and crack climbing were the name of the game.

The Thirty Years of War (7c+), Viks Kile, 1995

In the early 1990s, sport and mixed climbing began to appear. By the mid-90s, sport climbing had started to take off, especially in southern Bohuslän, on the islands of Tjörn and Orust.

Today, Bohuslän boasts over 100 climbing sectors. These sectors feature trad, sport, and mixed routes. Crags stretch from Kungälv in the south to Strömstad in the north. New sectors are still being discovered, and routes are established each year. This growth is thanks to a dedicated community of Swedish, Scandinavian, and international climbers.

Notable Climbers and Their Impact

Big names like Yuji Hirayama, Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu, Alex Megos, Pierre Bollinger, Adam Ondra, Neil Gresham, and Leo Houlding have all left their mark here. They have contributed new routes and boulder problems that have become classics in the climbing community.

Johan Luhr, who will speak Saturday night at Bohusfest, is a true legend of the Swedish climbing scene. With over 1,300 first ascents, he’s put up more routes than anyone else in the country. He was part of the early trad movement in Bohuslän and played a major role in developing sport climbing here through the 90s and 2000s.

“Viks Kile on the island of Tjörn has always been one of my favorite places for sport climbing in Sweden. The variety of routes, the nature, the climbing community, the proximity to the sea, and the silence. Looking forward to seeing you at Bohusfest.” – Johan Luhr

Why Bohuslän Should Be Your Next Climbing Destination

In conclusion, Bohuslän is a must-visit destination for climbers. Its rich history, stunning landscapes, and vibrant community make it a unique place to climb. Whether you are looking to challenge yourself on new routes or simply enjoy the beauty of nature, Bohuslän has it all.

With over 100 climbing sectors and a legacy of legendary climbers, Bohuslän continues to be a beacon for climbing enthusiasts. Don’t miss the chance to experience this incredible climbing paradise.

TICKETS